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Jun 2016 VOL.62

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  • Busan Searching
  • by KIM Su-yeon, SONG Soon-jin / 10.17.2014
  • Exploring Busan to Find Places in Films
     
    To Koreans, Busan is a city that evokes a special nostalgia. Japan’s occupation of Korea led to Busan’s growth as a colonial harbor city. The outbreak of the Korean War transformed Busan into a city of refugees mingling with the joy and sorrow of ordinary people. Houses with very small rooms began to flank the ridge that traverses Busan, and small and big markets opened below them. There are still many towns that emit nostalgia in Busan, the second largest city in Korea. Korean cinema has frequently captured scenes of the 1960s and 1970s in shantytowns of Busan and places where the romantic sea mixes with mountains. These days, one more location has become very popular for shoots in Busan. Costal scenes from Haeundae to Gwanganri are replete with luxury high-rise buildings, reflecting a city of the future. Let’s tour Busan and the various places that have featured in film scenes.
       
    ▶ Dadaepo Beach
       
    INFO▶
    Location Gamcheonhang-no, Saha, Busan
    Website Cultural and tourism in Saha,
    http://tour.saha.go.kr
     
    Production Note
    Deok-su, along with his father (JUNG Jinyoung), mother (JANG Young-nam) and sister Mak-sun, jump into the sea to board a ship to Busan after hearing that Chinese soldiers are coming. The photo is a scene of evacuation from Heungnam Pier during the Korean Conflict. This is the beginning of this story and Deok-su’s tragic life. According to the film crew, they needed a wide lot that overlooked the sea since nearly 300 refugees would need to fill the screen. But it was a big challenge to find such a place. In order to find the right location, the director went to several long beaches in Korea such as Haeundae and Mangsang. But it was hard to come by a wide beach. However, Dadaepo Beach in Busan relieved the crew’s worries.
     
    View Point
    Dadaepo Beach is about eight kilometers southwest of downtown Busan. The beach is popular for the sands that form from the upstream of the Nakdong River, a gentle slope with shallow and warm water. The beach does not allow Homestays and camping. There are no restaurants, entertainment facilities, motels or hotels on the seashore. This regulation allows people to enjoy the true charms of the beach. Across the road from the beach are amenities such as lodgings and restaurants. What makes the beach special is that even if you are 300 meters away from the coast, the water is only about 1.5 meter deep. This adds to its popularity as a family-friendly place.
     
     
    ▶ Kukje Market
       
    INFO▶
    Location Sinchang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan
     
    Production Note
    This is a scene from the modern-day Kukje Market in 2013. The shoot took four days. It took a huge amount of time to turn HWANG Jung-min into an old man in his 70s through specialized make-up. Accordingly, the makeup work did not afford the crew much time each day. It was expected that Kukje Market would be thronged with merchants and customers and therefore, it would not be easy to shoot the film there. But the merchants’ strong cooperation saved the crew time and money. They actively supported the shooting although their sales might have dipped due to the film’s interference with their business. On the day of the shoot, the Kukje Market Merchant Cooperative asked the merchants to cooperate with the crew via an announcement. The merchants were very proud of the fact that the title of the film (in Korean) is Kukje Market and furthermore that the film would show the world their market.
     
    View Point
    Kukje Market, which expanded from Shinchang-dong in Busan, began to take shape after Korea’s liberation from Japan in 1945. The liberation compelled Japanese people to leave Korea for Japan. So they formed a temporary market at the current site of Kukje Market to make a sizeable sum of money by selling war reserves. After the breakout of the Korean War in 1950, refugees began to sell goods at this site, fuelling the creation of the market. At that time, military equipment and all kinds of goods were smuggled for GIs in Busan through Busan Harbor. These smuggled goods were supplied to other markets across the nation through Kukje Market. The maze-like mix of import goods shops and other stores is a characteristic of the market.
     
     
    ▶ Jagalchi Harbor & Jagalchi Market
       
    INFO▶
    Location 37-1, Nampo-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan
    Production Note
    Deok-su has no alternative but to work as a manual laborer at the harbor throughout his 20s. The scenes of Deok-su in his 20s were filmed at Jagalchi Harbor. The dried fish market at Jagalchi Market and the wharf of Jagalchi Harbor still have buildings built during the Japanese colonial rule. The old buildings make people feel as if they have returned to the past. In the film still, Deok-su drags boxes. They are old ones that are no longer used. These days, they use styrofoam containers instead. Modern props around the harbor were replaced with wooden fish boxes. These can be seen around the actor’s area of movement. HWANG Jung-min fashions messy hair as a young man and comes across impressively.
     
    View Point
    Jagalchi Market runs from the dried fish market adjoining Yeongdo Bridge to the Big Fish Market in Chungmu-dong. Reputedly, the name originated from the fact that there was a lot of gravel in the area and also from Galchi fish (hair tails). The Korean War compelled women to work and they began to sell fish at the market. So, they were called ‘Jagalchi Women’. The best way to take a tour of the market is to look around as the fresh fish flaps around and while listening to the gentle local dialects from Jagalchi Women.
     
     
    ▶ Taejongdae
          

    INFO▶
    Location Dongsam-dong, Yeongdo-gu, Busan
     
    Production Note
    Deok-su in his 20s leaves for Germany to work in a mine in order to earn money for the college education of his younger brother. Deok-su meets Young-ja who works there as a nurse. But their exciting and happy days are all too brief. Deok-su barely cheats death in a mine and comes back to Korea while
    Young-ja stays in Germany by herself. Six months after Deoksu’s return, Young-ja visits Deok-su. Deok-su takes Youngja to Taejongdae and talks with her over a dish of raw fish. Taejongdae is a popular place among Busan citizens. The place was a good shooting location since there were no modern buildings around.
     
    View Point
    Taejongdae is a wide coastal hill south of Yeongdo of Busan. The place was named Taejongdae since King Taejong Muyeol of Shilla Kingdom enjoyed archery there. Taejongdae was used as a place for banquets for envoys that came back from Japan. Ritual prayers for rain were performed there when a long
    draught hit the Dongnae area from the Shilla period to the Joseon period. Tourists can expect a fine view of the South Sea on Taejongdae with forests and unique cliffs. It is nice to take a walk on Taejongdae while watching the sea. Also, the pebble yard of Taejongdae is studded with roast clam restaurants.
     
     
    ▶ Open Set & Haedong Yonggung Temple in Gijang
          
    INFO▶
    Location 416-3, Sarang-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun, Busan
    Website www.yongkungsa.or.kr
     
    Production Note
    This site shows Kukje Market in the 1960s. The center of the site is ‘Kotbuni’s Store,’ run by Deok-su in the film. The Busan Film Commission’s active support helped the crew build an open set in Gijang. The crew needed an empty space bigger than other open sets since they had to rebuild a market street. In the very nick of time, an empty space fitting their needs was found in the Gijang Special Tourism Zone and the set could be built. The set was placed on a lot that is 250 meters in length and 150 meters in width. This means that the set is one of the largest in Korea.
     
    View Point
    If you travel to Gijang, Haedong Yonggung Temple is a must-visit place. The temple greets the sunrise faster than any other in Korea. Yonggung Temple is one of the three most sacred Buddhist places along with Naksan Temple in Yangyang and Boriam in Namhae. Local legend has it that if a person sincerely prays here, his or her wish will come true. Since Yonggung Temple is so famous, not only local but also foreign tourists flock to it.
     
     
    ▶ Yongdusan Park
          
    INFO▶
    Location Gwangbok-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Busan
    Website http://yongdusanpark.bisco.or.kr
     
    Production Note
    The place where Deok-su and Yeong-ja have their somber talk as husband and wife is Yongdusan Park, not far away from Kukje Market. The park is a nice place for the couple to talk, as it is a 10 to 15 minute walk from Kukje Market. Most of all, Yongdusan Park has not changed much since its opening in the 1960s, which made the shoot easy. At the park, actors’ costumes were enough to reflect their era.
     
    View Point
    Before Korea’s liberation from Japan, the Japanese built their shrine in Yongdu Mountain. Now the mountain has patriotic monuments such as the memorial tower of the April 19 Student Movement, a statue of Admiral YI Sun-shin and the Busan Tower. Refugees built shacks in the mountain even on its top during the Korean War. Two big fires burned them down and left the mountain bald. But people reacted to the fires by deciding to plant trees on the mountain. As
    a result, the mountain became a beautiful park. The mountain overlooks Busan Harbor and Youngdo. In particular, people are able to see a breathtaking view on Busan Tower at night.
     
 
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